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How To Fix Warped Live Edge Slab

A question I get hit with a lot is how to keep a alive edge slab from warping, or how to cease i after information technology has started warping. I decided to make a video explaining the wood scientific discipline backside it and what you have to do.

https://www.youtube.com/sentry?5=YrwD6qHK5IM&feature=youtu.be

Heres the chart that tells you what the moisture content of your wood will be for the temperature and humidity of your domicile or woodshop.

8 comments then far

View Woodensparks's profile

Woodensparks

15 posts in 1317 days

#one posted 01-31-2019 02:37 PM

Peeps have told me to cut a big groove down the underside to allow expansion etc what your views?

View Logboy's profile

Logboy

81 posts in 4749 days

#2 posted 01-31-2019 07:12 PM


Peeps take told me to cut a big groove down the underside to allow expansion etc what your views?

- Woodensparks

That's absurd. In no manner shape or form does cut a groove in the bottom aid woods dry, allow it to expand/contract, or proceed information technology dimensionally stable. People cut kerfs in the lesser of their tables because the forest isn't dry and it's warping and they're trying to bend it back flat. It's no different than all the people routing in giant steel channels in the lesser of their slabs. Let the dang wood dry and achieve equilibrium with the temperature and humidity, and information technology won't warp. Information technology'due south that simple.

View Logboy's profile

Logboy

81 posts in 4749 days

#3 posted 01-31-2019 07:18 PM

Here'southward the bottom of i of my tables. Do you run across any grooves or metallic plates under information technology?

View Phil32's profile

Phil32

1824 posts in 1423 days

#4 posted 02-01-2019 12:23 AM

Consider this – If I carve a deep relief design into the surface of a slab (more that half the overall thickness), the surface expanse will be considerably greater than the flat opposite side. The rate of wet loss will besides be greater. If I cutting grooves into the opposite side, the area can exist closer to equal.

To be articulate, I don't cleave big reliefs in greenish wood. Also, I have had no problems with warping or dandy.

-- You know, this site doesn't require woodworking skills, but you lot should know how to write.

View Logboy's profile

Logboy

81 posts in 4749 days

#5 posted 02-01-2019 01:20 AM


Consider this – If I cleave a deep relief design into the surface of a slab (more that one-half the overall thickness), the surface expanse volition exist considerably greater than the flat opposite side. The rate of moisture loss will also be greater. If I cut grooves into the opposite side, the surface area tin be closer to equal.

To be clear, I don t carve large reliefs in green woods. Likewise, I have had no problems with warping or cracking.

- Phil32

I take no idea where you came upwardly with whatsoever of that just the speed at which wood dries has zippo to practise with the surface expanse. Kiln schedules and drying rates are determined past the thickness of wood, non the surface expanse. If you remove a office of a slab by etching it out, then patently the thinner function will dry and reach equilibrium faster because there are fewer cells to lose moisture, and less distance for moisture in the cell walls to travel to the surface to evaporate off. Its a well known fact that thinner forest dries faster than thicker wood. But to say that you lot need to equalize the surface surface area on both sides for drying purposes is bizarre and has no foundation in wood science. I don't know who gave y'all that thought, but there's absolutely no truth to your argument.

View Woodensparks's profile

Woodensparks

fifteen posts in 1317 days

#six posted 02-01-2019 07:58 AM

Nice wood… And cool my forest is dry dry i did as u said and waited… Nigh 3months in my room whrre it will alive.. Thats after 4 twelvemonth air dry and so kilning and were a depression wet location
Big elm slab 96inch by 36 with burly border

Im gona run a steel bar connecting my x leg frame not sunk in.. Simply cause id hate some fat twit at a party to sit dead middle and rip it in two

View TEK73's profile

TEK73

417 posts in 1227 days

#vii posted 03-sixteen-2019 08:07 AM

Great, and very clear, info. I think I got the message: the wood must be dry out – and dry out ways in balance with the humidity in the room.
Just if I, equally you, build the table in wintertime when it'southward cold and dry. I think you noted that the humudity in tour shop was all the style downward to 15%, and the woods then needed to be all the way down to 4%.
(the actual number is non of import, but that it is a relation is)
So, you build this prissy and straight table and everything is good.
Then summer comes and the humidity changes to 50%
Or the other way around, y'all build the table in the summer and winter comes.

From the info in the video you lot are doomed to accept warps or cracks with sesonal changes.
Nevertheless, that would not leave your customers very happy – and then I estimate that is not the case.
So what practise you do to make the slab stable during sesonal changes?

-- Information technology'south good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end. - Ursula Thousand. LeGuin

View Vince's profile

Vince

1335 posts in 4949 days

#eight posted 03-22-2019 03:35 AM

Logboy,
When y'all build a table in your shop then transport information technology to the customer who may live in a different area with college or lower humidity wont the table start to warp?

-- Vince

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How To Fix Warped Live Edge Slab,

Source: https://www.lumberjocks.com/logboy73/blog/129300

Posted by: stewartafre1969.blogspot.com

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